Build Your Own Raised Garden

There are so many different ways to grow a garden, from traditional furrow beds, to window boxes and everything in between.  My absolute favorite way to grow annual veggies is in a raised bed planter.

A very manageable size raised vegetable bed at
Austin-East High School

What is a raised garden bed?
Raised bed gardening is easier on my knees and back because I don't need to bend over nearly as far to plant, weed, water, or harvest.  There's also typically less weeding in a raised bed situation because it is difficult for creeping weeds to sneak into the garden from the sides.

There's more than one way to build a raised garden, and a variety of raised bed kits are available online or through local garden centers.  However, kits can be expensive and some may even be more difficult to assemble than constructing your own.  It can be difficult for home gardeners to choose a style or to decide whether to buy a kit or design and build themselves.  For this reason, some people never make it past the planning stage stage.

If this is the year that you're finally going to build a raised garden, then I suggest starting with this very simple and inexpensive plan.  All you really need is some lumber, posts, and soil to get started.  Sounds easy, right?

To build a raised garden, you'll need:

• Posts.  I suggest:
• Four 4 inch x 4 inch x 2 foot posts.  
• The posts will help secure the bed in the soil.  It's really not necessary to go deeper than 1 foot into the ground.  Even just 6 inches may be sufficient.  Modify as you see fit.
• Sides.  I suggest:
• Four 2 inch x 6 inch x 3 foot sections of lumber
• Four 2 inch x 6 inch x 5 foot sections of lumber
• I prefer rectangular beds to square beds because it's easier to reach the center of the bed.  If you have to climb into your raised bed to work (as is the case for many square beds greater than 4 feet long), that kind of defeats the purpose.
• Feel free to modify the length, width, and height of your bed as you see fit.  To change height of your bed, consider using 2x4s or 2x10s instead of 2x6s as I have.
• If you're not comfortable with cutting your own lumber, most box stores will cut your lumber order for you at a very minimal cost.



Laying out lumber before building can help you picture
what the garden bed will look like after construction

• Traditionally, pressure treated wood has been avoided because it would leach arsenic into the soil.  Today, arsenic is no longer used to treat most lumber.  Instead, pressure treated wood contains copper, which has some fungicidal properties for plants and should have a minimal affect on the garden.  However, any sort of pressure treated wood is not recommended for organic gardening.  For more information about using pressure treated wood in the garden, "Are Pressure Treated Woods Safe in Garden Beds?" is a helpful article.
• Soil
• 15 cubic feet of topsoil, or a volume appropriate to your bed.  To find the amount of soil you'll need, multiply the width of the bed with the length and height of the bed (ex. 3 ft x 5 ft x 1 ft = 15 cubic feet).
• Less than 30 cubic feet of soil can be conveniently purchased in bags from your local garden center or box store.  If a larger amount of topsoil is needed, consider ordering by the truck instead of bags.
• Tools
• 2.5 inch galvanized deck screws and power drill OR
• 3 inch galvanized nails and hammer
• I prefer screws to nails in a raised bed situation, but either method is acceptable.
• Flat edge shovel
• Post hole digger or a shovel

Building your raised garden

I prefer only put one nail or screw in a board
at first, so that I can move the lumber a bit
if I need to make adjustments.

Lay your lumber on the ground where you would like to build your raised bed.  Step back and visualize what the garden will look like once it's constructed.  Will your garden get enough sunlight?  Most vegetable plants will need six or more hours of direct sunlight a day.  How far away is the closest water source?  Are you on a slope?

When you have decided on a final location, mark the corners of where your bed will go.  Before construction, the grass or other plants that are already on the site will need to be killed or removed.  For smaller beds, it will be relatively easy to remove weeds with a flat edge shovel.  You should be able to scrape up the plants (roots and all), leaving bare soil.  Killing the weeds is an alternative to removing them mechanically.  The weeds can be killed with horticultural vinegar, a broad spectrum herbicide, or even boiling water.

Once your bed is clean of existing plants, it's time to dig your post holes.  If you don't have a post hole digger, a shovel will do.  

Construction is pretty simple -- put the posts in the holes, and nail on the sides.  This method can be a little bit sloppy; so I prefer putting the bed together in phases.  First, build the ends of the bed.  Nail or screw the two shorter boards to the posts for each side.  It helps to just add one screw or nail at first, so the boards will be a little moveable.  This way you have a little wiggle room if the bed needs to be adjusted a bit.

I prefer to build the ends of the bed first

Place the end of the bed in the post holes.  Are the ends straight?  Are the holes deep enough?  Make any necessary adjustments, then attach the sides of the bed.  Go back and add the second screw or nail to each board so your garden bed will be more sturdy.

Once the bed is built, fill soil back around the posts and press firmly.  Add topsoil, plants, mulch and voila!  You have successfully completed your raised bed garden!

To see more photos of building a raised bed garden, check out my photobucket story.

If you have any questions, comments, ideas, or suggestions, I love to get email!

What are your experiences with raised bed gardening?  What is your favorite pre-fab kit?  What is your favorite raised bed style?

We have 18 raised beds at the Knoxville Botanical Garden & Arboretum's "Every Child Outdoors" Youth Garden.

This clip includes video of volunteers building raised garden beds beds at the Knoxville Botanical Garden & Arboretum's "Every Child Outdoors" Youth Vegetable Garden.

Xeric Terrariums, How to Create a Desert in Glass

What is a xeric terrarium?

Building a terrarium is a fun and inexpensive
way to garden.  Create a living centerpiece.

A terrarium is like a miniature greenhouse, where plant
specimens grow inside a glass container.  Really any kind of clear glass container can be turned into a terrarium.  You can purchase a vase or fish bowl, or repurpose a bottle or jar from your recycling bin.  Probably the most fun thing about building terrariums is the idea that there are endless possibilities, and creativity and imagination are the only limiting factors.

Xeric refers to an environment that has very little moisture.  Plants that are native to the Mediterranean region or the American Southwest would be considered xeric plants.  Cacti and succulents are xeric plants that store water in their fleshy leaves and stems.  In terrarium gardening, xeric plants are best suited to life in an open container.  Terrariums that don't have an opening for air build up too much moisture for xeric plants to thrive in.  This means if you plan on creating a terrarium from a bottle or jar, plan on leaving the lid off so that humidity won't build up.

Terrariums make a great living centerpiece.  Building a terrarium can be a fun and inexpensive project for rainy days.  Even children that may not connect with traditional gardening can get excited about making a terrarium.

To create a xeric terrarium, you'll need

All that you'll need to create a xeric terrarium.

• Something made of clear glass with an opening at the top, like a
• Goldfish bowl
• Mason jar
• Soda bottle
• Wine glass
• Aquarium gravel - $3.74 Wal-Mart
• Activated charcoal 
• $6.74 Wal-Mart
• I've read that charcoal from a fireplace will work as well
• Sandy soil
• $4.24 Home Depot
• Mix your own, 1/4 - 3/4 sand
• Cacti and succulent plants
• You can purchase these for relatively little money from any nursery, box store, or grocery store.
• Succulents are easy to propagate by breaking off a leaf or stem.  They'll develop roots after planting in the terrarium.
• Decorations
• Rocks
• Seashells
• Coins
• Colored sand
• Figurines

Other tools that may come in handy include

• Funnel
• Chopstick or pencil
• Tweezers or tongs
• Spray bottle

Putting it all together

Sketch out what you'd like your finished terrarium to look like.  Where do you want decorations?  Where do you want your plants to grow?  Keep in mind the size, color, and texture of elements you'll be using when drawing your design.

Take some time to plan before you plant.

Clean the glass of the container that will become your terrarium.  If you're repurposing an old jar or bottle, make sure it's free of any food and drink residue.  If the glass is already pretty clean, wipe off dust and fingerprints with a moist rag.

Add gravel to the bottom of the terrarium.  The amount of gravel you add depends on the size of the container.  Shoot for anywhere between 1/4 inch to 1 inch.  If the container has a small opening, a funnel may come in handy.  Gravel is essential to a xeric terrarium, because unlike planter pots, your container probably won't have holes in the bottom to drain excess water.  The bottom layer of gravel will allow water to collect below plant roots, hopefully preventing root rot.  Remember, cacti and succulents that are native to dry areas don't like "wet feet."

Shake some activated charcoal onto the gravel and mix.  Again, the amount of charcoal you add varies by the size of the terrarium.  Shoot for 1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon.  Charcoal will help absorb odors and prevent mold and bacteria from growing.  Some older sources on terrarium gardening say that it's possible to use charcoal from a fireplace.  If using fireplace charcoal, be sure to crush well before using.  (If you've done this before, please leave a comment about your experience.)

Add your sandy soil mixture.  Shoot for 1/2 inch to 2 inches of soil.  It helped me to spread a thin layer of soil, add plants, then add more soil instead of trying to dig holes in a tiny glass jar.

Add large plants first, then smaller specimens.

Add plants.  Keep in mind that given time plants do grow, and space accordingly.  If the container is difficult to get in to for maintenance, consider adding fewer plants.  Succulents can grow very easily by breaking off a leaf or stem.  For example, if you only have one pot of a particular succulent, and you want to grow it in multiple terrariums, you can divide the plant or break off leaf or stem sections to plant in your new terrarium.  If your container has a small opening, tongs, tweezers, chopsticks or a pencil may come in handy to place the plants.

Add sufficient soil to cover the plant roots, then cover with gravel.  The top layer of gravel really gives a finished look that soil alone does not.

Add decorations.  Depending on what materials you're using for decor, you may want to place before planting.  I prefer to visualize where they'll be placed while planting and add afterwards.

Water the plants.  Be careful not to over-water because there's no drainage holes.  If you have a spray bottle, mist thoroughly.

Place your terrarium in a sunny location that isn't in direct light.  That means, the best spot for your terrarium is on a table near a sunny window.  With a little love, attention, and time, you'll have a beautiful living centerpiece.

To see more of my terrarium photos, check out my photobucket story.

If you have any questions, comments, ideas, or suggestions, I love to get email!

What are some experiences from when you built a terrarium?  What are things you did well?  What are some things you wish you'd done differently?

Sources:
Aiello, Amy Bryant, Bryant, Kate.  Terrarium Craft: Create 50 Magical, Miniature Worlds.
Kramer, Jack.  Gardens Under Glass: The Miniature Greenhouse in Bottle, Bowl, or Dish.
Kramer, Jack.  The Complete Book of Terrarium Gardening.
Wang, Peggy.  "21 Simple Ideas for Adorable DIY Terrariums."  Buzzfeed.com.

Clean, Simple and Inexpensive Composter -- A Rare Combination of Words

As an experienced gardener, I'm telling you that composting can be a messy, smelly process.  If you don't have the yard space for a large compost pile, or if you're just looking for a simple, clean, inexpensive system to recycle a few banana peels and coffee grounds, worm composting (or vermicomposting) is for you.

Red wiggler worms are best suited
for life in a vermicompost bin

Benefits of vermicomposting

• It's a simple, relatively clean way to recycle some food waste.
• Provides a good supply of fat, healthy worms for fishing.
• The end product, rich, dark, vermicompost, is a great soil amendment.
• You can also make worm tea during this process, which is high in nutrients and deters some pests.
• Worms, vermicompost, and worm tea can be sold for $$$.
• Worm compost bins can be used in a classroom setting to teach about decomposers, communities, recycling, and other key concepts.

Considering all these benefits, the cost of building the worm bin is very low.

To create your own vermicompost bin, you'll need

• 2 Roughneck Rubbermaid bins and lids, 10 gal $7.27 ea. Home Depot
• You can choose the size bin that's right for you.  I prefer 10 gal for my apartment.
• Virtually any type of plastic storage bin will work for this project.  In my experience, Roughneck's hold up best against UV damage and don't crack or shatter.
• Additional bins can be added as the worm population grows.
• Used potting soil (continuing in the recycling theme), finished non-worm compost, or potting soil without fertilizer prills
• 2 pieces of cardboard
• Newspaper or other shredded paper
• Autumn leaves (optional if not available but beneficial)
• 4 small pieces of scrap wood
• Red wiggler worms, available from most bait shops or an established worm compost bin
• Red wigglers are excellent composting worms that will thrive in your bin.
• Nightcrawlers don't thrive in confinement and will find a way to escape.  They're also not great for composting.
• Worms hand-dug from the garden probably won't be suited for life in a compost bin either.

Some other tools that may be helpful:

• a power drill
• 1/4-inch drill bit
• 1/16-inch drill bit

Building the vermicompost bin

Drill holes for drainage and ventilation

Select one bin to begin with.  Using the 1/4-inch drill bit, drill about 20 or so holes in the bottom of one bin.  Be sure to space holes evenly along the bottom of the bin to ensure adequate drainage.  A moist but well-drained bin is the key to prevent worms from drowning and to keep moist compost from becoming smelly from anaerobic bacteria.

With the 1/16-inch drill bit, drill ventilation holes along the top edge of the same bin.  Try to space the holes about every inch or so.  These small ventilation holes will provide air flow into the bin without allowing worms to escape from the sides.

Place the scrap wood inside the non-drilled bin close to the corners of the bin.  Place the bin that has holes inside of the bin, lifted up by the pieces of scrap wood.  This will allow the compost bin to drain excess water without making a big mess on the floor.

There's no real rhyme or reason to adding the remaining components.  My preference is to repeat layers like a lasagna inside the bin until the contents are a few inches below the ventilation holes, like so:

I prefer to layer leaves, paper, and soil

• Moist cardboard,
• Moist page of newspaper,
• Autumn leaves,
• Soil,
• Moist shredded paper,
• Soil,
• Worms,
• Moist cardboard,
• Moist page of newspaper

Secure the lid and you're ready to compost!  

What to feed the worms

To feed your worms, lift the top layer of cardboard and newspaper.  Bury the food to prevent fruit flies from finding it.  Avoid over-feeding your worms to prevent fruit flies and other pests from becoming a problem.  As with any compost situation, try to maintain 30 times more "brown" material (like paper and autumn leaves) than "green" material (food scraps).

My completed vermicompost bin

Worms should only be fed plant-based scraps like apple cores, tea leaves, carrot tops, and dead leaves from houseplants.  Worms should NOT be fed any salty food or animal products like meat, fat, or manure.  Exercise common sense -- what would you want to eat if you were a worm?

Future expansions

When your worm population grows, you can add additional bins.  Prepare the second bin with drainage and ventilation holes.  Use the 1/4-inch drill bit to make holes in one lid.  Stack the bins where the lid with worms is between them and the non-drilled lid is secured to the top bin.  Worms will be able to travel through the holes between the bins.  Add food to the top bin and the worms will create more vermicompost in the bottom bin.  After the vermicompost is harvested from the bottom bin, switch the bins so that the freshly mixed bin is placed on top.

To see more photos of building a worm compost bin, check out my photobucket story.

If you have any questions, comments, ideas, or suggestions, I love to get email!

Sources of inspiration:

• Appelhof, Mary.  Worms Eat My Garbage.  <wormwoman.com/acatalog/Wormwoman_catalog_Worms_Eat_My_Garbage_3.html>.
• Stewart, Amy.  The Earth Moved.  <amystewart.com/books/the-earth-moved/>.
• "Teacher Fact Sheet: Worm Composting."  SFEnvironment.org.  <sfenvironmentkids.org/teacher/activities/Worm_Ed_Packet.pdf>.
• "Rubbermaid Worm Bin Plans."  Vermicompost.net.  <vermicompost.net/rubbermaid-worm-bin-plans/>.
• "Cheap and Easy Worm Bin."  Washington State University Whatcom County Extension.  <whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/easywormbin.htm>.

Tabletop Aquaponic System, $50

On the morning of my most recent birthday, I sat up in bed, yawned, and rubbed the sleep out of my eyes.  I walked out to the patio with a cup of coffee, and lo and behold, a $50 bill had sprouted on my money tree.

"How far can I stretch $50?" I asked, and decided I'd challenge myself to build a thrifty home aquaponic system.

What is an aquaponic system?

Plants are grown hydroponically without soil.  Instead of adding fertilizer for the plants, fish live in the water reservoir for the plants.  Through the power of the nitrogen cycle, when fish go to the bathroom they supply nutrients for the plants.  In return, the plants keep the water clean for the fish.

Some benefits of aquaponic gardening include

• Increased access to fresh veggies and herbs year-round.
• In larger systems, edible fish like tilapia and catfish can be grown.
• Can be easier to maintain than strictly hydroponic systems, aquariums, or aquaculture where fish are grown to eat.
• Vegetables, herbs, and fish can be sold for $$$.
• Can be used in a classroom setting to teach about cycles of matter, communities, mutualism, and more.

To build a bare-bones home aquaponic system, I'd need

• A fish tank -- 10 gal aquarium, $12.97 from Wal-Mart
• Something for the plants to grow in
• 2 foot section of 4 inch PVC pipe, $7.18 from Home Depot
• 2 4-inch PVC endcaps, $4.86
• A pump to push water from the fish tank up to the plants,
• 30-45 gal/hr fountain pump, $16.98 Lowes
• 3 feet of 3/8 inch vinyl tubing, $0.99 Lowes
• An air pump to inject oxygen into the water,
• 5-15 gal air pump, $6.77 Wal-Mart
• 1 air stone, $0.99 Petsmart
• Connective tubing, $1.72 Wal-Mart
• Aquarium gravel - $3.74 Wal-Mart
• Plants -- grown free from rooted cuttings
• Fish -- a handful of feeder goldfish cost about $1.00 Petsmart

Some other tools that I thought may come in handy included:

• A drill, 1/8-inch and 1/16-inch drill bits
• Caulk and caulk gun
• A hacksaw

Putting the pieces together

It's a good idea to start with feeder fish

My first step was to fill the aquarium with water and put in the air pump.  The water needed to sit out at least 24 hours to allow chlorine from the tap water to evaporate before it was safe for the fish to live in. After a day passed, I added the fishies.

Cut a channel

With the fish in place, the next step was to give the plants some room to grow.  I started out by using a hacksaw to cut a 2-inch section of the 4-inch PVC pipe.  This step takes some patience, but I promise it's possible to finish.  The open section becomes the top of the pipe that the plants will sit in.

Next, I flipped over the PVC pipe and drilled 4 holes on the bottom to one side.  The fourth hole that's closest to the end of the pipe was drilled with the larger 1/16-inch bit, and the other holes were drilled with the smaller 1/8-inch bit.  I recommend starting with only two or three holes and adding more if needed rather than drilling several and having to plug them up when the plants get too dry down the road.

Drill drainage holes

With the channel cut and the holes drilled, it was time to add the end caps.  Although an employee at Lowes assured me that no caulk would be necessary for this part, it is.  I added a line of caulk along the edge of the PVC pipe, then popped the end caps on.  

Once the caulk had dried overnight, it was time to start pumping water.  Set the channel on top of the aquarium and partially fill with gravel.  Submerge the fountain pump and run the vinyl tubing up into the channel.  Secure the tubing with gravel inside of the channel.

I added plants, turned on the fountain pump, and the aquaponic system was complete!

The system has been running successfully for 3 weeks now.  I did lose some fishies, but I've also been able to add a couple fancier fish now that the cycling is complete.

The system continues to run
smoothly after 2 months

Helpful hints:

• A note about the fish:  It's a good idea to start off with just a few inexpensive feeder fish that are available at just about any pet store.  Don't get too attached to these fishies, because they're probably going to die of ammonia toxicity.  To speed up cycling, leave a clean sponge in an established aquarium for a few days.  Add the sponge to your tank when you add the fish.  This will transfer some of the beneficial bacteria needed for cycling to your system.  To learn more about ammonia toxicity, nutrient cycling, and other options to this process, check out the Aquaponic Source's cycling page.
• Another note about fish: Although comet feeder goldfish are great to kick start cycling, I've learned that they aren't great long term residents for this particular system.  Comet goldfish have a habit of jumping out of tanks that don't have a lid.  There are slightly more expensive fantail goldfish that have shorter bodies and are less likely to be able to build up the momentum required to jump out of the tank.  I wouldn't recommend black moor goldfish because they are likely to experience fungus problems.  Fish fungus illnesses should be treated with aquarium salt that can stress out your plants.
• A note about worms: Red wiggler worms can be added to the gravel to help break down fish waste.  Worms release nutrients for the plants to use and help keep the system clean for the fish.
• A note about PVC:  Be sure to remove all the little shavings left over from sawing and drilling.  If there are any left, they'll get into the water and the fish will eat them.
• A note about gravel:  Be sure to use aquarium gravel and not just any old rocks you happen across.  Rocks that contain limestone or seashells can raise pH to dangerous levels for both the fish and the plants.  Check out the Aquaponic Source for a simple test to determine if your gravel contains limestone.  Another good medium for the grow-bed is Hydroton clay pebbles.
• A note about the fountain pump: The model of pump that I selected was small and inexpensive, but it does not have a filter that protects the pump from getting clogged by fish waste.  For the first month or so, I removed the filter weekly and rinsed the intake in a sink.  Although that was effective, I scratched together a couple dollars for some filter foam.  Using scissors, I cut out a square and placed it under the fountain pump intake.  The filter foam should be removed and rinsed every month or so.
• A note about light: My system ran fine for over a month with just the ambient lighting in my apartment, but I grew tired of leaving my office overhead light on all day.  I sprung for a small desk lamp and fitted it with a 10 watt fluorescent aquarium bulb.  The lamp is plugged into a timer that turns the light on at 7:00 a.m. and off at 8:00 p.m.



Side view of the system after 2 months

For updated information on my bare-bones, home aquaponic system, check out my profile at the Aquaponic Source.

To see more photos of my home aquaponic system, check out my photobucket story.

If you have any questions, comments, ideas, or suggestions, I love to get email!

A special thanks to my Dad for giving me an opportunity to do such a neat project on my birthday!

My system continues to run smoothly after 2 months.